The Q’eros (spelled Q’iru in Quechua) are the last descendants of the Inca empire. Proud of their culture and traditions, they live on the Peruvian Andes (Cusco region) 5.000 metres above the sea level.
Visiting the Q’eros and living with them means having the possibility to fully immerse in their ancestral culture, which is based on a strong connection with their territory and the Nature.
Keep reading to know more about our experience with the Q’eros people.
4 days in Hatun Q’ero, our experience
Today the Q’eros live in the Nacion Q’ero (5.000 people), a vast territory on the Peruvian Andes composed of 5 macro-communities. The communities consist in turn of many villages.
For 4 days we were hosted by Julio. He lives with his family in the remote village of Q’Ollpacucho (4.800 metres above the sea level), which belongs to the community of Hatun Q’ero (120 inhabitants).
Like many other Q’ero villages, Q’Ollpacucho is shrouded in clouds most of the time. When we reached the valley, after a 2-hour hike, we were welcomed by a unique and wonderful view.
The valley where Q’Ollpacucho village is located
Q’eros spirituality
The Q’eros people are the last holders of an ancient spiritual knowledge, which they keep alive with full awareness.
The relationship between the Q’eros and their land is deep and visceral. Indeed, the clouds’ people live in accordance with the natural cycles and phenomena, which is reflected in their belief system.
The Q’eros people are the last holders of an ancient spiritual knowledge
Andean philosophy and worldview
The Q’eros spirituality is not a religion. Instead we should talk about philosophy or worldview. Indeed, the Q’eros (like the Incas and other Andean people) have a comprehensive view of the existence.
According to them, the human beings and the other creatures (gods included) are part of an indivisible whole ruled by the laws of Kausay, the living energy.
The Q’eros have a comprehensive view of the existence.
This worldview is an integral part of their daily life. The constant dialogue with the Cosmo and the Pachamama (Mother Earth) is kept alive and run by the Pampamishayoq (Andean shamans in connection with the Cosmo through practices and rituals) and Altomishayoq (Andean shamans in direct connection with the Cosmo) for the benefit of the whole community.
The Andean rituals, offerings to the Pachamama and meditation
Julio is a Pampamishayoq. During the days he hosted us, we had the chance to join some Q’eros rituals.
The second day we hiked up to the Apu Wamanlita (5.200 metres) to take part to a collective despacho, a group ritual offering to the Pachamama.
Collective despacho ceremony
These rituals can be performed for a specific purpose, for a clear request to Mother Earth or, as in our case, to simply strengthen the connection with the Earth or the place of birth.
The third day we started early in the morning with the sanaciones, one-on-one phisycal cleansing rituals. After that, we climbed up to a sacred place where Julio guided us into a series of complex meditation techniques.
Q’ero ritual offering to the Pachamama
The meditation is aimed at taking roots in the earth (like trees) and opening oneself to the Cosmo.
How the Q’eros live
The bond between the Q’eros people and the Nature is not limited to the spiritual practices. In the small Q’ero villages, the daily activities are marked by natural rhythms.
The life of the last Incan descendants is based on the concept of Ayllu, for which people from the same village live like one big family, even when they are not related.
The life of the last Incan descendants is based on the concept of Ayllu
Q’eros houses
The house that hosted us, like other Q’ero houses, is a 20 m² structure made of raw bricks, a straw roof and beaten mud floor. Within this little space Sebastiana, Julio’s mum, arranged everything to host us and two more travellers.
The beds were nothing but llama skins to protect us from the hard and cold floor. Here we laid our sleeping bags, while Julio and his family slept under several layers of blankets.
The kitchen was a just a fireplace made of stone. The fire, lit h24, is fuelled with dried roots and llama excrements. Sebastiana moves easily around this fireplace, handling rapidity the only three pots and the few utensils she has.
The Q’eros houses are structure made of raw bricks, a straw roof and beaten mud floor
Q’eros diet
The Q’eros diet is poor. They live in one of the harshest regions in Peru and they are used to live with what the surrounding nature offers. Living 5.000 meters above the sea level they can only produce few varieties of potatoes (in Peru there are over 4.000 varieties).
From breakfast to dinner, the Q’ero diet consists of potato soup.
From breakfast to dinner, the Q’ero diet consists of potato soup. However, mixing different varieties of potatoes, few vegetables and some dried llama meat, the older Q’eros women like Sebastiana still manage to prepare very tasty meals. Indeed, in 4 days we didn’t eat the same soup twice!
Q’eros economy
Only a very small part of the Q’eros economy is based on money.
The houses are built by hand using the materials of the territory. The water comes directly from the surrounding glaciers and it’s channelled in small collective fountains. The heating comes from the kitchen fireplace.
Most of their clothes are handmade as well, spinning the llama wool and using natural dyes.
Zero environmental impact.
Only a very small part of the Q’ero economy is based on money
Therefore, the money they need is very little.
Where does the money come from?
First, the travellers visiting the Q’eros make an economic contribution in return for their hospitality. Moreover, the Q’eros shamans often travel to share with the rest of Peru and the world their traditions and practices. This way they manage to gain more for the benefit of the entire community.
In conclusion
During the 4 says spent with Julio and his family in Hatun Q’ero we probably learned more than in the previous 4 months of travelling.
These people live in one of the most inhabitable places in the Earth, 5.000 metres among glaciers and clouds. They live with little, the essential. Still, every morning, when they wake up, they are thankful for the simple reason that a new day is starting.
During the 4 says spent with Julio and his family in Hatun Q’ero we probably learned more than in the previous 4 months of travelling
In the next article we will tell you how to reach the Q’eros without having to join an organized tour!
perùq'eros
quantumcompass
We are a travelling couple who, after leaving pretty much everything behing, decided to explore their inner and outside world
